I found two guys that surf worse than me. Scroll down past the surf report for a pictorial.
Looks like Spring is upon us. I'm not complaining, though. This means pre-work dawn patrols will work their way back in to my schedule. This, of course, brings with it an increase in gas costs since I won't be on the bike as much and will have to drive my truck. And then there's that whole lack of swell thing that Spring inevitably brings with it. Still, I'm not complaining. Really...I'm not. I'm ready for some mild weather - 4/3 be damned.
Whiff
Tuesday, February 28, 2006
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Goo Be Gone
Looks like there's going to be nothing to surf for the next few days. I think I'm going to strip the wax off my board this weekend just to say I did something surf-related. There's so much wax on it right now, it's like looking at Neil Armstrong's Moon footprint when you stand on it. You're like ankle deep in grey wax. Then, when you sit on it, you get kind of this bucket seat action going. Great lumbar support, mind you, but it's not exactly surf-friendly. Yeah...she's due a good rewax.By the way, you other SoCal surfers should take a few moments and read what it's really like to surf during the Winter. Check out the most recent Sissyfish post. Great read.
So what are you going to do with yourself this weekend?
Whiff
Monday, February 20, 2006
Persistence is Futile
UPDATED: (see below)
Think back to Friday as this entry is regarding my session that day. You guys seemed to have ran with the comments on the Stoke post and I didn't want to mess that up by plopping a shitty session on top of it. So, now that you've had your speak, here we go with that shitty session...
El Porto. Mushy beyond all recognition. It was, in fact, a standout session because of the complete failure of these knee to waist+ waves to break in a manner that would allow a board to successfully plane on its surface. You know it's bad when the longboards can't catch anything. A group of us were huddled around one area of beach that had two peaks running. We each spent our time bouncing back and forth between them trying to see if someone was going to catch one. No way in hell. I stood up on a few but was immediately left with utter flatness. You can forget about a bottom turn, setting a rail or otherwise representing the surfing community with your actions. You can even forget about the old Huntington Hop too. No wave for you!
You wanna know how bad it was? Let's just say the 2:45 minutes I had loaded the parking meter with had 1:55 minutes left on it when I drove home. That's bad.
Update: Of course, in true C.O.N.S. fashion, I recieve an email and photos today that prove I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about, once again. As this photo from Friday shows, at least one person was managing some good rides at El Porto that morning. Apparently, a little trip down-beach a few hundred yards would've yielded something surfable, if not rippable. (Photo courtesy of Randy Wright, Horizons West)
Whiff
Think back to Friday as this entry is regarding my session that day. You guys seemed to have ran with the comments on the Stoke post and I didn't want to mess that up by plopping a shitty session on top of it. So, now that you've had your speak, here we go with that shitty session...
El Porto. Mushy beyond all recognition. It was, in fact, a standout session because of the complete failure of these knee to waist+ waves to break in a manner that would allow a board to successfully plane on its surface. You know it's bad when the longboards can't catch anything. A group of us were huddled around one area of beach that had two peaks running. We each spent our time bouncing back and forth between them trying to see if someone was going to catch one. No way in hell. I stood up on a few but was immediately left with utter flatness. You can forget about a bottom turn, setting a rail or otherwise representing the surfing community with your actions. You can even forget about the old Huntington Hop too. No wave for you!
You wanna know how bad it was? Let's just say the 2:45 minutes I had loaded the parking meter with had 1:55 minutes left on it when I drove home. That's bad.
Update: Of course, in true C.O.N.S. fashion, I recieve an email and photos today that prove I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about, once again. As this photo from Friday shows, at least one person was managing some good rides at El Porto that morning. Apparently, a little trip down-beach a few hundred yards would've yielded something surfable, if not rippable. (Photo courtesy of Randy Wright, Horizons West)Whiff
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Stoke
Jason posted today and offered his take on why surfers feel the need to try and explain just what it is about surfing when people ask why we do it. He says it's like trying to explain jazz to someone. His answer to those who ask - "Try it." Not a bad bit of advice. It's true, you really can't explain stoke to someone who has never experienced it. But - by God - we like to try, don't we!
I think, as surfers, we are constantly looking for the right words when trying to explain why we love surfing so much because we want to make damn sure the uninitiated know that stoke is not to be confused with fun, excitement, or thrills. It's on a completely higher plane.
I love to ride my Harley. Absolutely love it. It's exciting and fun and I get what it is about them. But you know what? The feelings I experience from riding are shallow and hollow when compared to what I can extract from a surf session. Not even close.
I can't find the words to describe stoke. I don't think any other surfer can accurately either. That's the whole problem right there. Stoke is something that must be experienced to understand.
Try it.
I think, as surfers, we are constantly looking for the right words when trying to explain why we love surfing so much because we want to make damn sure the uninitiated know that stoke is not to be confused with fun, excitement, or thrills. It's on a completely higher plane.
I love to ride my Harley. Absolutely love it. It's exciting and fun and I get what it is about them. But you know what? The feelings I experience from riding are shallow and hollow when compared to what I can extract from a surf session. Not even close.
I can't find the words to describe stoke. I don't think any other surfer can accurately either. That's the whole problem right there. Stoke is something that must be experienced to understand.
Try it.
Sunday, February 12, 2006
Sweet Lord, I Need To Surf In The Afternoon More Often
Today, I might as well have been on vacation somewhere. That's how out of the ordinary it was for me. First off, the weather - HOT. Second, I paddled out at 1:30pm. Yes, the afternoon. I'm not used to surfing after 9:00am so this was weird for me. There was this big orange ball in the sky that I can't recall seeing while surfing in at least 3 years or so. "The Sun", I think they call it. Well that thing just kicks ass! Third, and probably most notable, was the fact that I did not wear a watch. Why? I didn't have to. With my mother-in-law in town for the next 2.5 weeks, I'm a free man, my friends. On the days I can surf, I have the luxury of not having to choose between sleep and surf. I can actually surf while being somewhat coherent (if not buzzed - I'm a "crack a beer at Noon" kinda guy). I also have no pressures to return back home to help with the kids. So I took advantage of the freedom and pulled a beautiful, extra-long sunny session at T*****a.
Size was kinda small, but, comfortable. Maybe 2-3ft with some plus sets here and there. However, the shape was good. My first hour, everyone was making it through from the point. This kept my wave count to practically nil. I didn't feel like fighting for a wave - I'm way out of whack surf-wise right now - so I stuck to the inside waiting for someone to bail or miss the section. Despite the fucking awesome weather, I was feeling a bit bummed at not catching much of anything. However, things changed...
The second hour, the tide pulled out enough so that the waves started swinging wider. This effectively put a very large section in the wave that was near impossible for the point guys to make. The inside was now open for business. I think I caught 6 waves that second hour. It's funny...the crowd thinned out a bit a that time too and, literally, it was me and one other guy setup to pick off the set waves at that big section. It took a while for folks to realize what was happening. Right place/right time for me, I guess. The wind kind of stirred up things a bit, but, it was totally manageable.
Notables:
Picked off the last wave of a set by setting up real late. Took off in the breaking peak and managed to keep it under control - even called a guy off who didn't think I'd make it. I managed a couple of big S turns before it sectioned off on me. Fun ride.
Snagged a very nice ride after the inside opened up on another one. Did a nice wide bottom turn and swung back up to the top for a big top turn. Pumped some more, made the section and got a couple more little turns in.
I pulled off a bunch of waves to yield. Timid Timmy, I was. There was a point where I got sick of pulling off, said "fuck it" and dropped in anyways. 1/3 those waves I got to keep. 2/3 I pulled off the shoulder without incident. I need to find a balance with that whole aspect of managing a position in the lineup. Being a dawn patroller, I rarely have to deal with anyone paddling on the same wave. So, I get a bit intimidated when I have to compete. I get filled with self-doubt, more honestly. However, I over came that today for a little while and it paid off.
All in all, this was a good session for me on many levels. The conditions mixed with some good rides really put my mind in the right place. Something about this break I really dig. The past two sessions here allowed me a glimpse at my Spring/Summer Dawn Patrol self. I'm so ready to get back to those 3-4 session weeks.
Size was kinda small, but, comfortable. Maybe 2-3ft with some plus sets here and there. However, the shape was good. My first hour, everyone was making it through from the point. This kept my wave count to practically nil. I didn't feel like fighting for a wave - I'm way out of whack surf-wise right now - so I stuck to the inside waiting for someone to bail or miss the section. Despite the fucking awesome weather, I was feeling a bit bummed at not catching much of anything. However, things changed...
The second hour, the tide pulled out enough so that the waves started swinging wider. This effectively put a very large section in the wave that was near impossible for the point guys to make. The inside was now open for business. I think I caught 6 waves that second hour. It's funny...the crowd thinned out a bit a that time too and, literally, it was me and one other guy setup to pick off the set waves at that big section. It took a while for folks to realize what was happening. Right place/right time for me, I guess. The wind kind of stirred up things a bit, but, it was totally manageable.
Notables:
Picked off the last wave of a set by setting up real late. Took off in the breaking peak and managed to keep it under control - even called a guy off who didn't think I'd make it. I managed a couple of big S turns before it sectioned off on me. Fun ride.
Snagged a very nice ride after the inside opened up on another one. Did a nice wide bottom turn and swung back up to the top for a big top turn. Pumped some more, made the section and got a couple more little turns in.
I pulled off a bunch of waves to yield. Timid Timmy, I was. There was a point where I got sick of pulling off, said "fuck it" and dropped in anyways. 1/3 those waves I got to keep. 2/3 I pulled off the shoulder without incident. I need to find a balance with that whole aspect of managing a position in the lineup. Being a dawn patroller, I rarely have to deal with anyone paddling on the same wave. So, I get a bit intimidated when I have to compete. I get filled with self-doubt, more honestly. However, I over came that today for a little while and it paid off.
All in all, this was a good session for me on many levels. The conditions mixed with some good rides really put my mind in the right place. Something about this break I really dig. The past two sessions here allowed me a glimpse at my Spring/Summer Dawn Patrol self. I'm so ready to get back to those 3-4 session weeks.
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Friday, February 10, 2006
The Tide Is High
Man, if it weren't for the tide, it would have been a whole helluva lot of fun this morning. Shape was pretty good, it was glassy, calm and extremely comfortable while draped in a 4/3. My intention was to meet a buddy out front of one of the lifeguard stations, however, I ended up a station and a half north since the peak at which we were to meet was practically unsurfable when I got there. That's not to say my choice of peak was much better. I managed a couple of drop n' turns but that's about it. Everything else was getting flattened by the tide/backwash combo or was just closing out in a menacing shorepound. Wish I had the afternoon off to wait out the tide change.
On a good note: As explained in my most recent DadCentric post, for the next couple of weeks, I'll have a little more flexibility on my surf session timing while my mother-in-law is in town. Built in babysitter, my friends. Sweet!
And on a side note: At 5:30am this morning, I see my neighbor (and prominent local Venice surfer/photographer) packing up his truck with his surfboards. After realizing it was me instead of the sketchy homeless man I probably resembled that early in the morning, he told me he was headed to Trestles. I gotta get down there one of these days.
We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Whiff
On a good note: As explained in my most recent DadCentric post, for the next couple of weeks, I'll have a little more flexibility on my surf session timing while my mother-in-law is in town. Built in babysitter, my friends. Sweet!
And on a side note: At 5:30am this morning, I see my neighbor (and prominent local Venice surfer/photographer) packing up his truck with his surfboards. After realizing it was me instead of the sketchy homeless man I probably resembled that early in the morning, he told me he was headed to Trestles. I gotta get down there one of these days.
We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Whiff
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
No More Kooks
I'm pretty much fed up with folks referring to others as "kooks". It really serves no purpose other than to degrade (usually anonymously) a fellow surfer and to inflate someone else's fragile ego. I'm sorry, that's just not cool. And I don't want to propagate that crap. You can do that shit on your own blog. I'm going to start deleting those types of comments.
So, from now on, the only reference to a kook on here will be me talking about myself. If you're not happy about that then perhaps you shouldn't be here in the first place. I want to help encourage surfers, not discourage them.
On a side note...I'm a kook.
Whiff
So, from now on, the only reference to a kook on here will be me talking about myself. If you're not happy about that then perhaps you shouldn't be here in the first place. I want to help encourage surfers, not discourage them.
On a side note...I'm a kook.
Whiff
Monday, February 06, 2006
What Would Bodhi Do?
Sunday, I met up with BBD for a Dawn Patrol run. We hit up an undisclosed beach break in some pretty intimidating surf conditions. I'd call it waist to chest high with shoulder+ sets. Lots of pounding closeouts to dodge. No one is out...at all.
The paddle out is simple enough. A couple of duck dives and we were good to go. A chest high wave rolls through and I start to paddle for it. I chase it a little too far inside and have to back off since it's just turning in to a closeout at that point. I turn around to paddle back out and see a set of - what looked like - head high waves bearing down on me. I'm in the worst spot I could possibly be for this. I paddle like mad try and pierce through the face but I get caught and end up going over the falls. Man, that was gnarly. I was pinned down on the sea bed for a second or two on my right shoulder and then rag-dolled like a little bitch.
I get a gulp of air just in time for the next wave to continue where the first one left off. After the third one, I'm pushed into what turned out to be a frickin' whirlpool of a sideshore current that took me several minutes to get out of. I thought about just paddling in and picking another spot to paddle back out. However, I just kept going and paddled about 30 yards north to finally get out of it. I make it back to the lineup pretty exhausted and winded. It's only been about 15 minutes!
We move up beach for a better peak. I went for a bunch of waves. I was feeling very aggressive for some reason. Probably because I was pissed at getting beat down so early in the session. Anyway, I pick off a steep drop and ride a little further in than I should've. This puts me back into yet another one of those sideshore vortexes. Floundering around, I decide to just belly back to the beach, rest and paddle back out. Simple enough, I guess.
Well, I manage to get about 10ft from shore in water that is only about knee deep so I start to dismount to walk up. Nuh-uh. I turn around and see this fucking shorepound breaking on me. This was scary. It threw me down chest first and proceeded to try to throw my legs heels-over-head. Classic neck/back breaking scenario. Luckily, I had the wherewithal to twist around and get into a ball. That shook me up a bit. The feeling of my body getting bent in a way it's not supposed to go is frightful, to say the least.
I rest for few minutes and debate on whether to paddle back out. Between my surfing and the two times stuck in the side rip, I was pretty beat. I was also angry. I don't like being defeated. I was in a charging mode so I decided to suck it up and go back out there. The paddle out was getting more difficult. The consistency was picking up as well as the size.
Only a few moments passed before going for my last wave. It was a big set wave that set up nicely. I made a quick angled drop into the steep face. However, it was actually opening up to some shoulder so I turn out to make a bottom turn. It's getting steep again and is going to pitch on an upcoming section. I actually am set up to get barreled with the possibility to make it out. I turn back towards the pitching peak but was too far out to get under it. Instead, the lip popped me right in the face - mouth open, of course - flattened me and filled me full of saltwater. Still, an exciting wave for me as I've never really been in a position that I recognized as being a makeable barrel with an escape route while having the confidence to know what to do to pull it off - even if I didn't. :-) I was satisfied with that ride enough to call it a day. Sometimes, it's your mindset that makes a good wave more than the wave itself.
BBD kept calling me "Bodhi". I guess he's not used to seeing me charge. Me either, come to think of it.
The paddle out is simple enough. A couple of duck dives and we were good to go. A chest high wave rolls through and I start to paddle for it. I chase it a little too far inside and have to back off since it's just turning in to a closeout at that point. I turn around to paddle back out and see a set of - what looked like - head high waves bearing down on me. I'm in the worst spot I could possibly be for this. I paddle like mad try and pierce through the face but I get caught and end up going over the falls. Man, that was gnarly. I was pinned down on the sea bed for a second or two on my right shoulder and then rag-dolled like a little bitch.
I get a gulp of air just in time for the next wave to continue where the first one left off. After the third one, I'm pushed into what turned out to be a frickin' whirlpool of a sideshore current that took me several minutes to get out of. I thought about just paddling in and picking another spot to paddle back out. However, I just kept going and paddled about 30 yards north to finally get out of it. I make it back to the lineup pretty exhausted and winded. It's only been about 15 minutes!
We move up beach for a better peak. I went for a bunch of waves. I was feeling very aggressive for some reason. Probably because I was pissed at getting beat down so early in the session. Anyway, I pick off a steep drop and ride a little further in than I should've. This puts me back into yet another one of those sideshore vortexes. Floundering around, I decide to just belly back to the beach, rest and paddle back out. Simple enough, I guess.
Well, I manage to get about 10ft from shore in water that is only about knee deep so I start to dismount to walk up. Nuh-uh. I turn around and see this fucking shorepound breaking on me. This was scary. It threw me down chest first and proceeded to try to throw my legs heels-over-head. Classic neck/back breaking scenario. Luckily, I had the wherewithal to twist around and get into a ball. That shook me up a bit. The feeling of my body getting bent in a way it's not supposed to go is frightful, to say the least.
I rest for few minutes and debate on whether to paddle back out. Between my surfing and the two times stuck in the side rip, I was pretty beat. I was also angry. I don't like being defeated. I was in a charging mode so I decided to suck it up and go back out there. The paddle out was getting more difficult. The consistency was picking up as well as the size.
Only a few moments passed before going for my last wave. It was a big set wave that set up nicely. I made a quick angled drop into the steep face. However, it was actually opening up to some shoulder so I turn out to make a bottom turn. It's getting steep again and is going to pitch on an upcoming section. I actually am set up to get barreled with the possibility to make it out. I turn back towards the pitching peak but was too far out to get under it. Instead, the lip popped me right in the face - mouth open, of course - flattened me and filled me full of saltwater. Still, an exciting wave for me as I've never really been in a position that I recognized as being a makeable barrel with an escape route while having the confidence to know what to do to pull it off - even if I didn't. :-) I was satisfied with that ride enough to call it a day. Sometimes, it's your mindset that makes a good wave more than the wave itself.
BBD kept calling me "Bodhi". I guess he's not used to seeing me charge. Me either, come to think of it.
Friday, February 03, 2006
Eh...
I'm in dire need of a good session. If it's not me messing things up, it's the surf itself. Such was the case this morning at Ocean Park.
It was maybe knee to waist high the first 1/2 hour I was there. Sunny, glassy and nice, mind you, but, small (I have a comma fetish). However, around 9am, things picked up for about 15 minutes. It was actually pretty decent with some chest high sets rolling through here and there. But, seriously, it died after 15 minutes. Must've been some weird vortex of sucklessness that passed through briefly. I think the fog pushed it in. When I arrived, you could see the fogbank off in the distance. It landed just as that little window of bliss closed.
I really have no good waves to speak of. I managed a couple of quick drops and did a lot of late, two-paddle quick takeoffs. But, most everything else was just mushy stuff.
I was hoping to meet up with Surfsister there this morning, but, with the fog and my penchant for never staying in one place there, that was practically impossible. However, immediately upon paddle out, who do I recognize? Grace. She was actually wearing this cool beanie with a ball on top. I thought she was bluffing when she blogged she was going to. Nope.
Anyhoo...I'm not sure if I'll get another session in this weekend. We've got that whole dual-birthday thing going on that I need to work on. The four of you that read this blog over the weekend will need to look elsewhere.
It was maybe knee to waist high the first 1/2 hour I was there. Sunny, glassy and nice, mind you, but, small (I have a comma fetish). However, around 9am, things picked up for about 15 minutes. It was actually pretty decent with some chest high sets rolling through here and there. But, seriously, it died after 15 minutes. Must've been some weird vortex of sucklessness that passed through briefly. I think the fog pushed it in. When I arrived, you could see the fogbank off in the distance. It landed just as that little window of bliss closed.
I really have no good waves to speak of. I managed a couple of quick drops and did a lot of late, two-paddle quick takeoffs. But, most everything else was just mushy stuff.
I was hoping to meet up with Surfsister there this morning, but, with the fog and my penchant for never staying in one place there, that was practically impossible. However, immediately upon paddle out, who do I recognize? Grace. She was actually wearing this cool beanie with a ball on top. I thought she was bluffing when she blogged she was going to. Nope.
Anyhoo...I'm not sure if I'll get another session in this weekend. We've got that whole dual-birthday thing going on that I need to work on. The four of you that read this blog over the weekend will need to look elsewhere.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Oh Goodie
Looks like Friday and Saturday mornings should be fun. A light offshore "event," they call it, along with some waist to chest high surf. Perfect! As I've stated in my previous entry, I'm just not up to snuff and really need some practice. I'm looking forward to Spring when the sun comes up early enough for me to pull some weekday Dawn Patrols. That's when I slip it in to gear and get my chops back. And by "chops" I mean standing up, turning, paddling properly...you know, the fancy stuff. That's also the time BBD and I start meeting up for sessions again. It's weird - we'll go 3 months without speaking and then, as soon as sunrise hits 6:00am, cell phones are ringing the night before and we pick up right where we left off - except he usually has one less board in his quiver by then.
Did I mention that my Super Bowl Sunday will be spent in a house full of sugar smacked, screaming, yelling, 1st grade girls as they celebrate my daughters' birthdays? One word: Nice.
(Mental note: have sit down with wife and discuss suspiciously coincidental scheduling of said party.)
Did I mention that my Super Bowl Sunday will be spent in a house full of sugar smacked, screaming, yelling, 1st grade girls as they celebrate my daughters' birthdays? One word: Nice.
(Mental note: have sit down with wife and discuss suspiciously coincidental scheduling of said party.)
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